Iver Johnson Revolver Serial Number Database Best Repack May 2026
To identify the manufacture date of an Iver Johnson revolver, you can use the serial number prefix specific markings
as a guide. There is no single "magic" official database, but collectors rely on established patterns from experts like Bill Goforth Iver Johnson Serial Number Quick Guide
Iver Johnson used a specific letter-prefix system for most of the 20th century to designate production decades: No Letter Prefix: Generally manufactured between 1909 and 1919 Single Letter Prefix: Manufactured between 1920 and 1929 Two Letter Prefix: Manufactured between 1930 and 1939 All Letter Serial:
Often seen on models like the "Champion" shotgun or late revolvers, made between 1940 and 1950 How to Find Your Serial Number
If you cannot see the number on the outside of the frame, check these common locations: Bottom of the Trigger Guard: The most common external spot. Left Side of the Frame: Hidden under the left grip panel Butt of the Revolver: Stamped on the bottom of the grip frame. Key Identification Markers Black Powder vs. Smokeless: Examine the mainspring flat leaf spring
usually indicates an early black powder model (pre-1909), while a coil mainspring indicates a 3rd Model designed for smokeless powder. Owl Head Grips: If the owl on the grip is facing toward the barrel , it is often an earlier model; facing can indicate later production. Patent Dates: Check the top of the barrel. Dates like "PAT'D NOV. 17.08"
are typical for 3rd Model Safety Automatic revolvers produced between 1909 and 1941 Top Resources for Collectors
For the most accurate data, collectors recommend these specialized sources:
Dating an Iver Johnson revolver requires more than just a serial number; it often involves cross-referencing mechanical design with letter prefixes that the factory used to denote specific production years. Because Iver Johnson didn't use a strictly linear numbering system across all models, you must first identify your model's "variation" to find an accurate date. Where to Find the Serial Number
Iver Johnson often "hidden" serial numbers to prevent tampering. Check these three key locations:
The Butt: The most common location is on the bottom of the grip frame.
Under the Grip: Remove the left grip panel. The full serial number—often including a crucial letter prefix—is usually stamped on the left side of the frame. Iver Johnson Revolver Serial Number Database BEST
Under the Top Strap: On top-break models, open the action and look at the frame underneath the top strap. Deciphering Serial Letter Prefixes
For many 20th-century models, the letter prefix (or lack thereof) is the primary indicator of the production era:
No Letter Prefix: Generally indicates production between 1909 and 1919.
Single Letter Prefix: Typically denotes the decade of 1920–1929.
Double Letter Prefix: Usually signifies production from 1930 to 1939. All Letter Serial: Found on models from 1940 to 1950. The "FITCHBURG" Code
Iver Johnson used a unique cipher based on their home city, FITCHBURG, to represent numbers 1 through 9. This is often found on later models like the Champion shotgun but may appear on some revolvers: Faqs - Smith & Wesson
I understand the interest in tracing the history of an Iver Johnson revolver, especially given their popularity from the 1880s to the mid-20th century. However, I need to provide an important clarification upfront:
There is no official, complete, publicly searchable online database where you can simply type a serial number and instantly get the full history of an Iver Johnson revolver. Most of the company’s original production records were lost, destroyed, or never systematically digitized.
That said, collectors and researchers have compiled partial serial number references that can help date your revolver. Below is the best available guide to using those resources effectively.
Step 2 – Locate the serial number
- Bottom of the grip frame (most common)
- Rear face of the cylinder
- Inside the left grip panel
Step 4: Avoid Fakes & Scams
- No website offering “instant Iver Johnson serial number lookup” is legitimate.
- Beware of paid databases claiming full factory access.
- Do not share serial numbers publicly on the internet (to avoid legal/safety concerns).
Epilogue: Your Turn
If you find an old Iver Johnson revolver—in a dusty drawer, an estate sale, or a pawn shop—don’t guess. Don’t listen to the Fudd lore at the gun counter.
Open the database.
Enter the serial.
And watch a forgotten piece of American working-class history come back to life.
Because every number has a story. The database just tells you how to read it.
End of story.
Want actual lookup instructions or known serial ranges for a real Iver Johnson you own? Let me know the markings, and I’ll help you decode it.
Finding the production year of an Iver Johnson revolver requires cross-referencing serial number prefixes and mechanical features, as there is no single, central "official" database remaining since the company went out of business
. The most comprehensive data is derived from historical reconstruction, notably by researcher W.E. "Bill" Goforth. Key Serial Number Indicators
Serial number formats changed significantly over the company's production history to denote different eras and powder types. No Letter Prefix (1909–1919) : Typically indicates early 20th-century production. Single Letter Prefix (1920–1929) : Standard for revolvers and shotguns during the 1920s. Two-Letter Prefix (1930–1939) : Introduced for more varied models produced concurrently. All-Letter Serial (1940–1950) : Rare coding system used on some later models. The "FITCHBURG" Coding System
Iver Johnson famously used a "word-code" for some serializations based on their home city, Fitchburg, MA. : F=1, I=2, T=3, C=4, H=5, B=6, U=7, R=8, G=9. : A serial of "BHFI" translates to 6521. Locating the Serial Number
Numbers are often hidden to prevent tampering or located on parts that require disassembly to view.
The best way to identify and date an Iver Johnson revolver is through the serial number and letter prefix
found on the left side of the grip strap (under the grips) or under the top strap. Because many early Iver Johnson records are incomplete or scattered, collectors rely on specialized databases and reference guides like those by expert W.E. Goforth Iver Johnson Serial Number & Identification Guide 1. Locate the "True" Serial Number To identify the manufacture date of an Iver
The number on the trigger guard is often a partial or duplicate. For accurate dating, you must find the number with its letter prefix Remove the left grip : The full serial number is typically stamped on the left side of the grip strap Under the top strap : Open the action; the number may also be visible there. 2. Identify the Model Era (Black Powder vs. Smokeless)
The serial number format often indicates whether the firearm is safe for modern ammunition: First Model (1894–1896) : Identified by a single-post latch ; typically black powder only. Second Model (1897–1908) double-post latch and often has a flat mainspring; black powder only. Third Model / "New Model" (1909–1941) : Features a coil mainspring and was designed for smokeless powder 3. Decode the Serial Prefix (Approximate Years) While specific databases like the NRA Museum Serialization Records
offer partial data, general patterns for later models (1909+) include: Serial Number Format Estimated Production Era No letter prefix 1909 – 1919 Single letter prefix 1920 – 1929 Two letter prefix 1930 – 1939 All letter serial 1940 – 1950 Example: A serial number starting with indicates a manufacturing run in followed by digits often corresponds to 4. Identifying Features for Quick Dating The Owl Logo
: On "Safety Automatic" models, the owl on the grip will face toward the barrel on earlier models and toward the shooter on later variations. The "FITCHBURG" Code
: Some models used a letter-to-number code based on their hometown, Fitchburg, MA: F=1, I=2, T=3, C=4, H=5, B=6, U=7, R=8, G=9, O=0 Trusted Resources for Verification Expert Reference Iver Johnson Arms & Cycle Works 1871-1993 W.E. Goforth
is considered the industry-standard "database" for these serials. Community Forums : Collectors on platforms like Reddit/r/guns
often cross-reference private databases for specific serial requests. Appraisals
: For legal or valuation purposes, consult a certified appraiser through services like JustAnswer Firearms specific serial number or help you identify whether a model is a Safety Automatic U.S. Revolver Co.
#2: The "Proofhouse.com" Searchable Database (Fastest Online Tool)
For a quick, searchable, no-nonsense digital tool, Proofhouse.com hosts one of the best online Iver Johnson serial number databases. While not as granular as Goforth’s books, it covers the most popular models.
Proofhouse has compiled date tables for:
- Iver Johnson 1st, 2nd, and 3rd Model Safety Hammerless
- Iver Johnson 1st, 2nd, and 3rd Model Hammer (Trigger-cocking)
- Large Frame (.38 S&W & .38 Special)
Why it’s among the BEST: You simply scroll to the Iver Johnson section, find your revolver type, and match your serial number to the chart. It’s clean, runs on any browser, and is completely free. Step 2 – Locate the serial number
Limitation: It does not cover post-1941 models (like the Trailsman 66 or Supershot Sealed Eight). For those, you need specialized forums.
Why You Need a Reliable Serial Number Database
Before we dive into the best resources, it’s crucial to understand why an accurate database matters. For Iver Johnson revolvers, the serial number is not just a unique identifier; it is the key to unlocking:
- Manufacturing Date: Determining the exact year (or even month) your revolver left the factory.
- Model Identification: Iver Johnson produced multiple lines (Safety Hammerless, Super Trapp, Sealed Eight, etc.). Serial numbers often overlap; the database helps differentiate them.
- Black Powder vs. Smokeless Powder: This is critical for safety. Iver Johnson made a pivotal switch in 1909. If your gun is a "Black Powder Only" model and you fire modern smokeless ammunition, you risk a catastrophic failure. The serial number tells you which is which.
- Value Appraisal: A pre-1900 "First Model" is worth significantly more than a post-WWII "Third Model."
3.5 Small Frame .32 / .38 (Third Model, 1909–1941)
- Serial range: 80,000 – 240,000+